![]() I'm surprised to hear that your F1 is almost too hot to touch. Changing to 30fps might fix are you aware of any sound synchronization problem with the F1 when recording 4k25fps? I've not seen that happen in any of my testing of the F1. It appears to be more than 10 seconds out which is very strange. I don't have an answer for your audio lag issue. 1.8GB files are really big and could lead to a problem with long term loop recording. I would recommend using a smaller loop duration for 4k recording. Watching on my phone, the video quality looks OK, although I usually use superfine quality to increase the bitrate. If you change the video settings to ntsc from pal, you can record at 4k30fps instead of 4k25fps. has already given a comprehensive answer to your first question. Most dash cams require at least 1000mAh of current to function properly so a car's USB ports should be avoided regardless.Ĭlick to expand. In theory, if you were to cut the green and white wires in your USB cable you could get the camera to work with your car's USB port because it would now only provide power but another issue in using a car's onboard USB port is that most of them provide only 500mAh of current which is less than ideal. This way, if you connect to a standard power only source (like a power bank or car charger) the camera will run properly but if you were to connect the same 5 pin cable to a computer you can then transfer your video files. Typical USB cables that are used with dash cams have 5 pin plugs that correspond with the internal wires that provide for power, ground and data (plus sheathing). The cigarette lighter socket and the standard plug are purely power sources with no data wires and that is what is required. USB ports built into cars are meant to charge devices like cell phones as well as connect them to your car's entertainment system (thus the data connection) so you can see your phone's playlist on your head unit and listen to the music that is on your phone, for example. So basically, your F1 thinks it is connected to a computer and it will act as a storage volume rather than a camera. ![]() The reason your car's USB port will only charge your camera but not operate it is that the USB port has a data connection along with the usual power wires. If you watch the video, you can hear the indicator going when on a straight road, after the corner where the indicator was actually on. Hoping it isn't a Chinese fake as it was bought on Amazon UK and the seller was GitUp? Is the heat normal? Could this be why its not recording well? The Amazon Link Are the videos ok? To me it seems they are basically too slow and therefore the image quality isn't the best.ģ. The download button is 1.8GB though so should be 4K.īasically the cam is rated at 4K 30fps, but i only can get 25fps. Hoping this will process into 4K version eventually. Currently Google Drive link is only at 1080p instead of 4K. I have a YouTube Link Here and also Google Drive Link Here. I currently use the 3 pin plug to charge high capacity items such as phones and laptops.Ģ. I presume this is by design and i cant 'fix' this, to boot into dashcam mode using USB only? Plug into a 3 pin plug adaptor so its only going to a plug socket, dashcam mode is enabled. This is the same problem when plugging into a PC or PS4, charge mode only. ![]() The only way i can get it to go into dashcam mode, is plug it into the cigarette or 3 pin socket, this is not ideal. So basically i plug my dashcam into the car USB and it only charges it. So in my car i have 2x cigarette lighter socket, 1x USB, 1x UK standard 3 pin plug socket (in use) However when i use any usb it only charges it. Set external power mode is set to dashcam. Updated to latest firmware on Gitup website before use.ġ. ![]() I believe point 1 will not be able to be fixed though. ![]() Tried my dashcam for the first time today and think i have some problems with it. ![]()
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